2012年4月23日 星期一

【飲食新聞】北海道也有米其林美食指南了


在登陸日本滿五週年後,米其林美食指南於日前推出北海道版本。這是繼關東(東京、橫濱、鎌倉)、關西(大阪、京都、神戶、奈良)後,第三本評選日本境內餐館的米其林美食指南,並使日本的三星餐廳增為36間,更加傲視全球。

2012年的北海道米其林指南囊括了699間餐廳與旅館,其中有4間三星餐聽、12間二星餐廳與50間一星餐廳。4間三星餐廳中,壽司餐廳與法式餐館各半:「鮨 田なべ」及「温味」是位於札幌的壽司餐館,「Moliere」是法式餐廳,也在札幌,「Michel Bras Toya Japan」則是位於洞爺湖的法式餐廳。

米其林在日本向來有不少爭議,除了起初日本人對於外來的米其林能否適切評判日本美食存有疑慮,隨著日本大舉斬獲米其林星星,數量愈趨增加,也使不少人質疑「日本的米其林星星是不是太好拿了」。目前,日本共有36間三星餐廳,遠遠超越米其林的故鄉法國的26間,更別提美國的10間與英國的4間了。

Kei Kobayashi就對日本的米其林指南開了一槍。Kei Kobayashi是成功至法國發展的日籍廚師,曾在巴黎的「Alain Ducasse at Plaza Athénée」工作了七年,並於2011年在巴黎開設了自己的餐廳「Restaurant Kei」。Kobayashi認為,日本廚師雖然擁有精純的技術,並能將技術徹底實踐,但缺乏創造力;他也提到,「也許在法國比較難得到米其林三星」,因為法國的三星餐廳必須服務、環境、裝潢與食物全部到位,但在日本,又小又擠壽司店也能取得三星榮冠(如東京的「數寄屋橋次郎」)。

Kobayashi的評論,在我看來又陷入了過去「米其林獨尊法式料理」的傲慢中,難道三星餐廳都得像高級法國料理一般繁複又華麗嗎?米其林評審或許真的獨鍾日本吧,因為凡事都力求盡善盡美的日本,怎能教人不喜愛呢?

2012年北海道米其林美食指南已於4月20日發售。

資料來源:123




4 則留言:

Rich 提到...

Didn't realize Hokkaido has so many Michelin-level restaurants! Did they include the entire prefecture or just Sapporo Metro? Where can you find the published list? (the press release is not on Michelin's website yet).

Michelin is in the business of selling guides. If they use the same standard in France to judge restaurants in Japan (and therefore not including Jiro because of lackluster service and ambiance), nobody will buy the guide. Same change in standard can be seen in US, UK, and HK, where gastropubs and dim-sum bistros get starred.

Liz 提到...

It covered the entire Hokkaido. See the full list: http://www.backpackers.com.tw/forum/showthread.php?t=637480

Yes, I agree that Michelin needs to apply different standards in order to boost sales across the globe. On the other hand, it doesn't make sense to use a universal standard if it really wants to reflect local tastes. That's why I called Chef Kobayashi's comment biased.

Rich 提到...

Thanks for the link. Michelin seems to respect soba in Japan more than it respects pasta in Italy. I'll have to visit one of these Michelin-level soba restaurants to know what the fuss is all about. I was wondering if there would be a Michelin ramen restaurant in Sapporo; but I geuss not...

Liz 提到...

Me too! I've always wanted to visit a really nice soba restaurant. Also, it struck me that Taipei doesn't have any good soba restaurants. With all the buzz of ramen in Taipei, why not a decent soba place?

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